Discover the Highland Uniform
Table of Contents
Kilts and tartans
The kilt is the garment most powerfully associated with Highland Scotland. At once functional and symbolic, it evolved from the simple necessity of clothing oneself in a cold, damp climate to become a badge of cultural pride, military identity, and clan heritage.
Origins and Early Forms
The earliest predecessor of the kilt was the féileadh mòr, or “great plaid,” dating to at least the late 16th century. This was a large rectangle of woolen cloth, typically five or six yards long and up to 60 inches wide. Highland men gathered and pleated the cloth by hand, wrapping it around their waists so the lower half resembled a skirt, while the upper portion could be draped over the shoulder or pulled over the head against rain and cold. The garment was held in place by a simple belt at the waist.
This belted plaid was more than a garment—it doubled as a blanket or sleeping cover and could be arranged in various ways depending on the weather or work being performed. Early travelers in the Highlands noted its practicality and the striking patterns woven into the cloth.
The “Little Kilt”
By the early 18th century, Highlanders serving in lowland cities or military regiments began to adopt a shorter version. This new style, the féileadh beag or “little kilt,” consisted only of the pleated lower portion of the great plaid, with no extra length for the upper body. Tradition credits an English Quaker named Thomas Rawlinson—who operated ironworks at Invergarry in the 1720s—with popularizing this shorter kilt among workers, though many historians suspect Highlanders themselves gradually refined the garment for practicality.
This form—the knee-length skirt fastened by straps and buckles—became standardized and recognizable. Over the 18th and 19th centuries, it was adopted by Highland regiments in the British Army, then codified in civilian Highland dress.
Construction and Pleating
A properly made kilt requires about eight to nine yards of heavy worsted wool. Modern kilts are tailored with meticulous care. The fabric is pleated along the back and sides, with the pleats stitched so the tartan pattern is preserved in a regular sequence. The front aprons remain flat and overlap. Internal canvas linings, leather straps, and buckles provide durability and adjustable fit. The hem typically falls to the center of the knee.
Pleating styles vary. Pleating to the sett aligns the tartan so the same pattern shows across the pleats, giving a consistent look front and back. Pleating to the stripe emphasizes a vertical line, creating a sharper, more regimented appearance. In all cases, the kilt’s depth and density of pleats give it its distinctive swing and weight.
Tartan: Origins and Symbolism
Tartan is a woven pattern of crisscrossed stripes in multiple colors. The earliest tartans were practical: undyed wool or vegetable-dyed patterns, varying by region due to the plants and minerals available. As dyeing technology improved, colors multiplied.
From the late 17th century onward, tartan became an emblem of Scottish and clan identity. By the Victorian period—when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert embraced Highland culture—each clan, district, and regiment formalized particular setts. Tartan manufacturers published pattern books defining thousands of variants.
Tartan’s symbolism has been both celebratory and contentious. After the 1745 Jacobite Rising, the Dress Act of 1746 banned Highland dress in civilian life, punishing its use with fines or imprisonment. This prohibition remained in force for nearly 40 years and was finally repealed in 1782. Ironically, the suppression of tartan only increased its symbolic power, and in the 19th century it resurged as a proud emblem of Scottish identity.
Old Davidson Tartan
Among the countless registered tartans, the Old Davidson is one of the most historically significant for Highland regiments and Highland civilian dress alike.
The Davidson tartan dates to at least the 18th century, connected to Clan Davidson, one of the major clans of the Chattan Confederation in Inverness-shire. It features a balanced and handsome pattern:
- Base color: Dark green field that gives depth and subtlety.
- Over-checks: Navy blue, forming broad stripes.
- Accent lines: Narrow red overstripes creating a bold yet understated highlight.
The design is distinguished by its restrained, somber palette, which suited it for both military and civilian use. In Highland military units where brighter reds or yellows were considered too conspicuous, the Davidson tartan offered a dignified alternative.
The tartan sometimes appears in references as “Old Davidson” to distinguish it from later adaptations with additional colors or modern re-interpretations. In some regimental uses, it has also been referred to as a “Government sett,” reflecting official adoption rather than purely clan affiliation.
For kiltmakers, weaving Old Davidson requires strict attention to proportion and thread count. The pattern repeats evenly across the fabric, ensuring that when the kilt is pleated to the sett, the visual grid of the tartan remains uninterrupted.
Kilt Pin
A small pin worn on the lower corner of the kilt apron to weigh it down and prevent flapping. Though a relatively modern addition, the kilt pin has become a standard part of formal dress.
Plaid
The plaid (from the Gaelic plaide, meaning blanket) is a long length of tartan cloth, distinct from the kilt but intimately connected to Highland dress.
Historically, the great plaid was the precursor to the kilt: the full-width woolen cloth belted around the body. Over time, as kilts became separate garments, the plaid was retained as a mantle or cloak.
In regimental full dress, the plaid is worn draped over the left shoulder and secured with a large brooch. It hangs down the back, sometimes nearly to the hem of the kilt. In the field, it could still serve as a blanket.
The plaid’s dramatic sweep and movement on parade help frame the entire uniform, adding grandeur and emphasizing the heritage of the Highland warrior.
Brooch
The plaid brooch (sometimes called a shoulder brooch or plaid pin) is both practical and decorative. Its main function is to secure the plaid where it crosses the shoulder, preventing it from slipping.
Brooches vary widely in design. Early examples were simple discs or pins, but by the 18th and 19th centuries, they became more elaborate: openwork Celtic knots, engraved thistles, clan crests, or inset stones such as Cairngorm quartz.
The brooch draws the eye upward in the ensemble and creates a focal point that anchors the flowing plaid. Its gleam against the dark tartan emphasizes formality and attention to detail.
Sporran
The sporran (Gaelic for “purse”) emerged to address a practical problem: kilts have no pockets. Early Highlanders carried pouches of deerskin, calfskin, or simple leather tied around the waist. Over time, these evolved into more structured sporrans with flaps, tassels, and closures.
By the 18th century, metal cantles—decorative curved tops—appeared, often made of brass or silver and engraved with Celtic or heraldic designs. Horsehair sporrans became popular for formal occasions, their flowing tassels creating visual balance with the kilt and hose.
Different styles of sporrans evolved for different purposes: day sporrans are simpler, often brown leather with three tassels; semi-dress sporrans mix leather and fur; full dress sporrans are large and highly ornamental, sometimes featuring six or more tassels, elaborate cantles, and fur fronts such as sealskin. Regardless of form, the sporran remains both functional—carrying coins, keys, and small items—and symbolic of Highland heritage.
Headdress
Feather Bonnet
The feather bonnet is the dramatic headdress recognized in Highland full dress. Its ancestry traces to the knitted blue bonnet of the 17th and early 18th centuries, a broad, flat cap often decorated with a cockade and a single feather. By mid-18th century, Highland soldiers began to cover these bonnets with ostrich feathers, both for decoration and to exaggerate height.
In the Napoleonic era, this evolved further: bonnets were reinforced with wire and leather to form a tall, basket-shaped framework completely covered in plumes. A chequered band encircled the base, and a hackle—usually red or white—rose above the forehead.
By the Victorian period, the feather bonnet became purely ceremonial. It could be 18 inches tall and weigh several pounds. Although impractical on campaign, it created an imposing silhouette in parade dress, intended to project martial pride and Highland distinctiveness.
Glengarry
The Glengarry is a traditional Scottish folding cap associated with Highland dress and still worn by the 48th Highlanders today. Originating in the early 19th century, it evolved from earlier military bonnets and was adopted for its practical, portable design. Made of thick wool and shaped with tapering sides and a crease down the middle, the Glengarry is stiff enough to hold its shape but soft enough to be folded flat and tucked into a belt or pocket.
Most members of the regiment wear a Glengarry in navy blue with a distinctive red-and-white diced band around the base and two trailing black ribbons at the back. A small toorie (pom-pom) decorates the crown, and the 48th Highlanders’ cap badge is displayed on the left side. This version of the Glengarry is used across ranks in undress and ceremonial dress.
However, the pipers of the 48th Highlanders wear a plain dark blue Glengarry with no red-and-white dicing, setting them apart visually from the rest of the regiment.
The Glengarry became standard undress headgear for Scottish regiments in the British Army during the Victorian era and remains in ceremonial use. Its sleek profile and ease of wear made it popular in both field and formal settings, especially among non-commissioned officers and junior ranks.
Balmoral
The Balmoral is a traditional Scottish bonnet characterized by a flat, round crown and soft, knitted construction. Unlike the Glengarry, it lacks a central crease and is typically worn pulled slightly to one side. Its origins lie in the earlier broad bonnets worn by Highlanders in the 17th and 18th centuries and it takes its name from Balmoral Castle, a royal residence in Scotland.
Usually dark blue or black, the Balmoral features a toorie on top and a small headband, often with a bow or ribbons at the rear. When worn in military settings, it displays a regimental badge on the left side and, depending on tradition, may also bear a hackle behind the badge. The Balmoral does not have the red-and-white dicing seen on the Glengarry, giving it a more understated appearance.
Introduced to the 48th Highlanders in 1914, the Balmoral replaced the Glengarry for wear in active service, especially during the First World War. Its lower profile and soft construction made it more suitable for use with steel helmets and in trench conditions.
Baldrick
A baldrick is a wide strap worn diagonally over the shoulder to support a sword or other weapon. In medieval Europe, baldricks were the standard way to carry a heavy blade, freeing the waist for movement.
In Highland dress, the baldrick was often adopted as a badge of office, especially by officers or pipers. Typically made of black or white leather and decorated with silver mounts, chains, or regimental insignia, it could display an ornamental plate or pouch.
While the functional need declined as sidearms shrank in size and military belts improved, the baldrick retained ceremonial significance, symbolizing readiness and rank.
Sgian Dubh (Skean dhu)
The sgian dubh (“black knife,” pronounced skee-an doo) is a small blade worn tucked into the top of the kilt hose on the right leg, with only the pommel visible.
Its origins are tied to the sgian achlais (“armpit dagger”), which was once carried concealed under the arm. It was customary for guests to lay aside weapons on entering a house but permissible to keep a small knife visibly displayed. This practice led to the modern sgian dubh, which gradually migrated to the stocking as a visible sign of good faith.
Typically 3–4 inches in blade length, the sgian dubh is simpler than the dirk. The hilt may be carved ebony or black horn, often capped with a small stone or silver mount. The scabbard is plain leather, designed to keep the blade secure when tucked into the sock.
While primarily ceremonial today, it serves as a nod to the practicality of Highland life and the discreet readiness expected of a Highlander.
Dirk
The dirk (biodag in Gaelic) is a long dagger that descends from the medieval ballock dagger, once used widely across Europe. For Highland warriors, it served as a thrusting weapon in close combat and also as a general utility blade.
Early dirks had plain wooden or horn handles and unadorned steel blades. Over the 17th and 18th centuries, their form became more elaborate. Officers and gentlemen commissioned dirks with carved ebony or bog oak hilts decorated with silver studs and Celtic knotwork.
In the 19th century, the dirk took on a ceremonial role, particularly in regimental dress. Blades were etched or engraved with thistles, regimental crests, and scrollwork. The pommel was often capped with a polished Cairngorm stone—a smoky yellow or brown quartz from the Scottish mountains.
A full dress dirk is typically accompanied by a small knife and fork, slotted into compartments in the leather scabbard. These side tools reflect the dirk’s heritage as both a fighting weapon and a practical companion for eating in the field.
Today, while the dirk is no longer used in combat, it remains an indispensable piece of formal Highland dress, symbolizing vigilance, tradition, and the martial character of Highland society.
Claymore
The claymore (claidheamh mòr, “great sword”) was a battlefield weapon of the 16th–17th centuries. It is most recognizable as a two-handed sword with a straight, double-edged blade measuring 4 feet or more in length.
Its hilt was distinctive, with a cross-guard whose quillons sloped forward and ended in quatrefoils. Some examples had leather-covered grips and wheel-shaped pommels.
By the 18th century, the two-handed claymore was largely obsolete, replaced in practical fighting by basket-hilted broadswords. But the image of the claymore as the classic Highland blade persisted in art and legend. Today, claymores appear in regimental memorials and ceremonial displays, representing strength and martial prowess.
Diced Hose
Diced hose are knee-length knitted wool stockings marked by their distinctive two-color checkerboard pattern. Red-and-white or red-and-black dicing was formalized in military dress regulations in the 19th century, making them an instantly recognizable feature of Highland regiments.
Diced hose are made from heavy worsted wool, offering warmth and a measure of protection. Below the knee, they are secured by red garter ties—narrow ribbons with flashes that hang down the side, adding a decorative flourish.
Though originally developed for practicality, the striking pattern has become a proud symbol of Highland dress, emphasizing tradition and visual cohesion.
Spats
Spats, short for “spatterdashes,” evolved in the 17th century to protect shoes and stockings from mud, dust, and moisture. Early versions were made of leather and extended to mid-calf, fastening with buttons up the side.
By the Victorian period, spats had transitioned from purely functional to largely ornamental. Highland dress spats are typically made of white canvas and fasten snugly over the ankle and instep with a strap under the sole. Their neat appearance and bright contrast against dark hose helped create a precise, formal line in parade dress.
While obsolete for field service, spats remain part of full ceremonial uniform, preserving a link to the dress practices of earlier centuries.